This is our most challenging trek in Bhutan and one of the finest in our Himalayan program. It is undertaken by only a handful of trekkers each season and accesses Lunana – the most remote region of Bhutan.
The trek crosses eleven high passes over 4,500m that define the borders of Bhutan and Tibet. Savouring views of Chomolhari and Jichu Drake, we follow trails through yak herders encampments and isolated farming settlements as we prepare for our trek to Lunana. Amid a constant backdrop of 7000m peaks we discover a region of tiny Buddhist monasteries and secluded villages that are isolated from the rest of Bhutan for many months of the year.
Arrive Paro
After clearing customs and immigration you will meet your Bhutanese leader and drive a short distance via the main street of Paro to our accommodation at the Kichu Resort. At some stage we have planned visits to the main part of town, and a visit to the National Museum. It will depend on our time of arrival into Paro, and when trek preparations are com pleted.
The Paro valley is truly beautiful, being a location for various farming activities, including commercial quantities of asparagus, strawberries and shitake mushrooms for export, plus various grain and vegetable crops; it is a patchwork of colours delineated by well kept traditional design farm houses that are ornately decorated. All of the slopes surrounding the valley are forested and the hint of mountains beyond is alluring. Simply driving through the willow lined streets is relaxing and uplifting – there is no clutter of people, or traffic or rubbish, (Plastic bags are banned).
Our afternoon is spent exploring and appreciating the Tigers Nest Monastery or Taktsang, as it is known in Bhutan, a short drive from our resort. It takes us about one and a half hours to walk up the steep winding trail through chir pine forest to a tea house and excellent vantage point. Another half hour walk takes us almost directly opposite the cliffs where the monastery is set. The monastery is the divine resting place of the Guru Ringpoche, and although it was accidentally burnt down more some years ago, reconstruction is now complete. We return to our accommodation and time permitting some exploration of Paro in the afternoon.
Drive to Drukyel Dzong (2580m) & commence trek to Shana (2860m) (16kms, approx 5/6 hrs)
It is a short drive of approx 15 minutes up the Paro valley to the roadhead at Drukyel Dzong where our trek commences. Drukyel Dzong was originally built as a fortress in 1647 to guard against Tibet ans invading the Paro Valley, although it was destroyed by fire in 1951. We also gain our first views of the summit of Chomolhari (7314m) at the head of the valley, while horseman organise their loads. We get under way straight away and take a break for lunch where it suits us, as we are carrying a packed lunch.
Initially the trail is wide and flat, passing through farm country made up of fields of rice, wheat, barley, mustard, potato, and radish as well as herds of cows. The traditional Bhutanese two storey, timber and stone houses form photogenic scenery for the beginning of our trek. It is a reasonable day’s walk today, our first day’s trek, taking us past a couple of settlements including a military post where our permits will be checked. Our camp at Shana is in a grassy clearing among a forest of tall pines beside the river.
Trek to Soi Thangthangkha (3600m) (24kms, approx 8/9 hrs)
We are now trekking within Jigme Dorje National Park, the largest protected area in the country (4350 sq kms.) which extends beyond Laya to Lunana in the east and all the territory to the south. Whilst it is a protected wilderness, the park management which is based at Gasa, has to cope with the needs of lowland farmers and seminomadic yak herders.
There is an amazing variety of species of plants and animals in the park at both high and low altitudes. The forests are tall and thick, comprising a variety of oaks, maple, birch, larch pine and allders that will be replaced by more and more rhododendron and pines as we trek higher. There are numerous different varieties of the former, and depending on the onset of warmer temperatures after winter, flowers will be in bloom, or past bloom, as the lower altitudes flower earliest. As we climb higher the rhododendron species change from the common rhododendron arboreum (Nepal’s national flower) to griffithianum and cinnabarinum. Many of the camps we stop at are not settlements as might be implied by them having a place name. Most are merely clearings beside a water source that is suitable for seasonal yak herders.
Trek to Jangothang (4100m) (12kms, approx 4/5 hours)
We continue higher to the camp at the base of Chomolhari, a superb alpine setting. Jichu Drake (6794m) rises to our right, with a fine, elegant ridge running down toward the pass that we will cross on our next trekking day. We camp in the vicinity of yak herders from the Paro Valley, who, like their counterparts in Southern Tibet, live in woven yak wool tents throughout the summer months. By now we are above the treeline and the area is characterised by low tundra of juniper and rhododendron setosum, while blue sheep have also been spotted in the higher rocky outcrops.
At Jangothang (reserve day)
A reserve day for acclimatisation. A side trip up the small valley towards Chomolhari takes us to a dramatic viewpoint and onto the glacier beneath. Alternatively we may make a scenic excursion up to Sopu lake set adjacent to Nye La pass, both will be worthy photo excursions. As far as mountaineering is concerned, these two peaks, like the rest of Bhutan, have seen little expedition activity from outsiders. Doug Scott successfully climbed Jichu Drake in 1988 on his third attempt, demonstrating that conditions are not so easy on this far east location of the Himalaya being first in line geographically for monsoonal influences.
Cross Nye La (4870m) to Lingshi village (4025m) (18kms, approx 6/7 hrs)
From camp we commence our ascent over rolling slopes of grassland and small brush to the Nye La (4850 metres). This stage is not unduly demanding and if this is your first Himalayan pass just take your time, particularly on the final steeper stages just below the pass, where grasses give way to scree and sand. The views enroute to Jichu Drake will inspire you From the Nye La we leave Chomolhari and Jichu Drake behind and make a steep descent through stands of pure rhododendron to Lingshi village. Of particular note is the Lingshi Dzong, built to protect this and the other outlying villages of Bhutan from the periodic raids from Tibet.
Trek to Chebisa village (3980m) (14kms, approx 5/6 hrs)
While those trekking just to the base of Chomolhari head out towards the roadhead today, we continue to head northeastward, ascending past the Lingshi Dzong across high alpine pastures dotted with rhododendron and daphne to Chebisa. It is a picturesque valley of pastures and shingle roofed, stone houses. At its head, a short stroll from camp is a tall waterfall cascading from a gap in rocky cliffs with a suspected hanging lake behind. Beneath are stands of very tall, gnarled juniper trees. Above Chebisa are the alpine pastures of the blue sheep and bharal that graze to the margins of the snowmelt during the summer months and descend way below the villages during the winter.
Cross Gobu La (4700m) to Shomuthang (3990m) camp (16kms, approx 7/8 hrs)
From Chebisa the trail gradually ascends to the Gobu La (4450 metres). The views back to Lingshi and the surrounding peaks are spectacular. Here, hill partridges have been sighted, while the lammergeier is seen soaring above the alpine pastures. The descent to our camp beside the farm village at Shomuthang is through a forest of cypress then spruce and birch with large stands of rhododendron - griffithianum and campylocarpum. Iris and edelweiss may also be in flower. Our camp is set right beside the river in a small clearing surrounded by dense bushes.
Cross Jare La (4200m) to Robluthang (4165m) (18kms, approx 8/9 hrs)
Our route takes us directly upwards this morning, traversing around many grassy slopes to the Jare La. Blue sheep and lammergeirs can often be seen here. Once at the gap, marked by flags and several cairns we can look expansively across to the adjacent valley and our next pass, the Shinge La which is the highest and perhaps the hardest of our trek. The trail winds down through rhododendron, spruce, cypress and birch towards a broad valley floor where animals may be seen grazing.
This may well be our first encounter with the people of Laya whom differentiate themselves by wearing the distinctive woven conical hats with a spike in the top and colourful beads draped around the back. Their ‘mobile accommodation’ as with all high altitude animal herders in this part of the world, is in heavy woven tents, usually made from yak wool. We trek several hundred metres in height up the opposite side of the valley to our camp in a hollow at Robluthang
Cross Shinge La (5005m) to Lemithang (4150m) (16kms, approx 8/9 hrs)
It will take us approximately four hours to make our ascent of Shinge La. A slow steady pace is essential to gain it comfortably and make the long descent on the other side. At the pass itself there are glimpses of peaks to our left including Gangchenta. Descending, thr ough boulders and grassy slopes, unparalleled views open out before us. Glacial blue lakes and white ribbon streams are set beneath the dramatic peaks of the ‘Tigers Ears’ Gangchenta. Further down, classic glacial erosion is at work, with fresh lateral and terminal moraine filling the valley floor along with an enormous milky grey lake. The forests are thick here, and our lovely riverside camp is surrounded by very tall conifers and the Tigers Ears as our backdrop.
Rest/Contingency Day
The decision to use this rest day here or later in the trek will be made by the group leader.
Trek to Laya village (3800m) (13kms, approx 5/6 hrs)
This morning we walk directly away from the mountain environment before us, descending the Zamdo Nangi Chhu valley to Laya and our first principle village of the trek. The forests are thick for the several hours; and the trail winds down beside the river steeply, until we reach pastures of the farmers of outer Laya. A swing in the trail brings us up to the main settlement which is spread out over a broad spur several hundred metres above the Mo Chu River. There are approximately 800 inhabitants in this high set village, and there is a school, hospital several small shops and a gompa to meet their needs.
Life is not easy in this cooler, isolated location that is snowed in during winter. Much of their living is reliant on yaks (meat, wool and dried cheese), and one annual crop of barley, mustard and turnips. Beneath the village is an army post protecting the frontier with Tibet, whilst above us to the east are spectacular views ahead to Masang Gang (7194m) and toward the region of Lunana where we will trek for the next 12 days. Prevailing snow conditions will be influential to our journey, as Lunana gets snowed-in at cold times of the year, and your guides will do their best to achieve our trip program without compromising safety. Furthermore, with good luck, we will be able to synchronise our change of animal porterage some time soon after our arrival and we can head off on the trail the next morning.
To Rodophu (4320m) (19kms, approx. 8/9hrs)
The trail leads out through the middle of Laya and descends the forested spur to the Mo Chuu river and an army post that guards the frontier with Tibet. After crossing the river we begin our ascent towards Lunana and the most remote stages of our trek. It will take us more than three days to reach the first settlement of Lunana, Woche. The forest is luxuriant and the steep trail winds up among tall trunks and root buttresses. As we climb higher we walk among pines, oaks and rhododendron, emerging finally to a broad river valley of alpine pastures. The valley is surrounded by steep slopes and rocky crags and being at higher elevations now, our evening camps will be cooler.
To Narethang (4900m) (16kms, approx. 6/7hrs)
We need to cross the river this morning and ascend the slope of dwarf rhododendron directly opposite, and once this is achieved, trek on through another small valley of alpine pastures to a small pass; Tsomo La (4780m). We descend and traverse around some slopes to be rewarded with a line of snowy peaks; with Gangla Karchaung (6395m) the highest. Our camp is on grassy slopes that are grazed by the yak herders of Laya.
To Tarina (3980m ) (17kms, approx. 8/9hrs)
It takes us about one and a half hours to reach our pass at the head of the valley and then a very long descent of approx 1200 metres to the valley of the Tang Chuu. We trek up to Karchung La (5120m) The peaks of Jejekangphu Gang (7300m) and Tsenda Kang (7100m) can be seen a little further on to our left. These dramatic peaks feed the lakes and river system before us. We drop down through lateral moraine and then forests of rhododendron to the valley floor where our camp is set in a clearing a little further downstream.
Below Keche La (4445m) (15kms, approx 5/6hrs)
Following the river, and sometimes walking in it, we descend the valley to see the impact of a number of large landslides. They have taken out tracts of forests and left an enormous pile of rubble in its wake. We climb over a ridge to the village of Woche at 3940m, the first village of Lunana. We may see families all helping to thresh their crops of wheat or buckwheat in the fields with traditional rotating sticks. Continuing on, we cross the river and make our way up through dwarf rhododendron to a lovely meadow camp near our next pass. Each day of trekking in this remote wilderness region of Bhutan should be savoured as no two days are the same; the diversity of beauty is uncorrupted.
To Chozo (4070m) (17kms, approx 8/9hrs)
Having made most of our ascent yesterday, we only have approx 200 metres to trek to the gap of the Keche La (4670m). There is time to relax and enjoy the views across the cirque like valley that we have just passed through. The large tarn is a dark green colour that is just so because it is not fed by a glacier. Turning towards our destination, we see distant unnamed peaks but have to descend continually to Thega village and the river of the Pho Chuu, one of the principal rivers of Lunana.
The temperatures are warm here and we trek leisurely beside the river and sometimes in the river bed, past the small village of Lhedi and on to Chozo. In recent times there has been a washout of the valley by the bursting of a large glacial lake near Thanza. Both Chozo and Thanza are considered the two main towns of Lunana, both are set before a spectacular array of mountains; the most dominating is Table Mountain (7100m) that has an expansive summit that seems to stretch for kilometres!
We aim to have a rest day here in Chozo, to enjoy the location and prepare ourselves for the challenging traverse ahead over three major passes out of the Lunana region. Yaks need to be changed and this can present delays if the local people are not in residence.
Rest Day in Chozo
Time to do washing, relax, or perhaps go for a walk up the moraine to the glacier near Table Mountain and Thanza. There is a small hillock behind the village which offers glimpses of the neighbour of Table Mountain, Kangphu Gang (7212m).
To Tshochena (4940m) (18kms, approx. 8/9hrs)
Two solid trekking days ahead through a region where the weather can change easily, from sun to sleet and snowstorms, and we should be well equipped for any conditions. Crossing the river first thing, we commence our ascent of a long rolling slope and narrow valley of dwarf rhododendron to the Situ La at 5170m . It will take us around four hours but the views back towards Lunana are spectacular. The pass is more a passage than a gap, which is long and sustained, almost like a lunar landscape with expanses of rocks and flats that are scattered with small glacial lakes and enclosed by a dazzling array of peaks. Camp is set on a barren plateau where blue sheep or ibex may be seen. We do not go to Tshochena via Thanza due to time constraints.
To Jichu Dramo (4900m) (approx 6/7hrs)
The trail undulates between snow -capped peaks and crosses the Loju La (4940m). Winding around several ridges, more expansive views open out before us including distant views to our most major pass of the trek, the Rinchen Zoe La (5320m). It will take us several hours to gain the pass, and in the final approach the views are unmatched. Vast glaciers run down from a series of snowy mountains into two major glacial blue lakes that have a scattering of small ‘icebergs’ across them. Few, if any, of these peaks have been climbed, making our panorama all the more special. At the gap we take time to take photos and appreciate our achievement, then continue on to our camp.
To Chukarpo (3930m) (approx 6/8hrs)
Leaving our yak herder camp in a side valley we follow the main valley down beside the river, entering the forest and warmer temperatures. The scenery is pretty, both immediately around us and to the snowy peaks in the distance down valley. The trail weaves in and out of boulders in and at the side of the river, and then enters thick tall forest of pines, rhododendron, birch and maple. It is soft underfoot; mosses and mud reflect the damp conditions now. Today we cross the Rinchen Zoe La (5320m) before descending to our camp set beside the river in a forest clearing.
To Thampe Tsho (4330m) (approx 3/4hrs)
A half day of trekking brings us to a camp just beneath our last pass. We wind up through the forest following a narrow valley to a hanging lake or tarn. It is a beautiful setting for our last mountain camp. We drop down beside a river and to the lake of Um Tsho at 4230m. Our camp is set by a lake a little further on, Thampe Tsho.
To Marothang (3605m) (approx 5hrs)
It takes us under an hour to reach the Thampe Tsho La (4655m), our last pass of the trek. From here the trek is all downhill to camp. Initially it is quite steep, winding down and past the large black lake of Um Tsho, and then traversing back and forth across cliffs to the valley floor. From now on to Marothang we follow the Nika Chhu river through rhododendron and pine forest, and yak pastures along fairly level terrain. We hopefully will be met by one of our office staff (with fresh foods), and also our change of porterage from yaks to horses for the last day’s trek tomorrow.
To Sephu (2740m) (approx 6/8hrs)
The trail follows the Nikka Chhu through thick, lush forest that is cool and pleasant. We emerge into bamboo thickets and patchwork hillsides of crops and houses of the Sephu district. It takes us a little longer than we think to finally descend to the roadhead and a small collection of shops at Sephu itself. Our transport meets us here and we drive on approx two hours to our overnight accommodation at the Ongde resort.
Drive to Thimphu (approx 2/3hrs driving)
It is approx two to three hours drive to Thimphu. The remainder of the day is spent in Thimphu for enough time to get a feel for the country’s capital. In Thimphu we plan to have lunch and a couple of hours free to explore the main street, handcrafts emporium and so on before returning to our hotel for a rest before dinner.
To Paro
No road is straight or quick in Bhutan, they wind in and out and up and around over ridges and along valleys to our destination. The roads are in good condition, not too busy and the scenery pleasant. The drive this morning to Paro will take between two and a half to three hours. We spend the afternoon exploring Paro. The main Secretariat building, the Tashichho Dzong is the most prominent building consisting of the main Secretariat, the National Assembly Hall, the Office of the King and the Throne Room. Its remarkable construction is in traditional Bhutanese style completed without the use of nails or metal of any kind. There is a large Stupa dedicated to the late King HM. Jigme Dorji Wangchuk, regarded as the founder of modern day Bhutan. Our last night in Bhutan is spent at the comfortable and relaxing environs of Kichu resort.
Trip Concludes
After breakfast transfer to the airport for the flight home.
Note:
The above route and estimated times must be seen as a guide only. This itinerary may change at any time due to weather, trail conditions or other reasons. Our guide will always make a final decision after assessing the situation and liaising with our crew and the group members.
- 26 breakfasts, 26 lunches and 26 dinners
- Airport transfers on Day 1 and Day 27
- Expert bilingual guide
- Group medical kit
- Good quality accommodation in Paro & Thimphu
- Gear package for use during the trip including kit bag, sleeping bag, down or fibre filled jacket and insulated sleeping mat
- All group camping equipment
- Private transportation
- All park entrance fees and trekking permits
- Porters/animals to carry 20kgs personal equipment
- Sightseeing and site entry fees as listed
| 30 September 2007 |
26 October 2007 |
| 07 October 2007 |
02 November 2007 |
| 28 September 2008 |
24 October 2008 |
| 05 October 2008 |
31 October 2008 |
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