When the mountains reach the sea along the Antarctic Peninsula they discharge huge glaciers into the narrow fjords and sheltered bays. This hauntingly beautiful part of the Antarctic provides a haven for the greatest concentration of wildlife on the continent.
We have scheduled five days to explore the deep bays and fjords of the western Antarctic Peninsula. With regular landings on our zodiacs we walk among the multitude of penguin rookeries and seal colonies in the vicinity of Deception Island, Gerlache Strait, Paradise Bay and the Lemaire Channel.
There are also ample opportunities to identify the sheer variety of seabirds and sight humpback and minke whales as they surface close to our boat.
Our time onshore will also include visits to scientific stations and historic sites as well as an option for the adventurous to camp out for the night.
Embark Ushuaia
Today we will have time to explore Ushuaia, a bustling community that lays claim to being the most southerly town in the world. Our competent Russian crew will welcome us aboard Polar Pioneer in the afternoon. Sailing down the Beagle Channel we will settle into shipboard life and enjoy our first meal on board.
Drake Passage
Journey across the Drake Passage, named after the 16th century English navigator Sir Francis Drake. Some of us will approach this historic crossing with more than a little trepidation but despite its reputation, there are times when the Drake resembles a lake, with lazy southern ocean swells rolling under the keel. On the other hand sometimes we have encountered rough crossings with large waves. The size of the waves and the force of the gale will take on gigantic proportions when related around the fire back home.
The Polar Pioneer is homely and strong, built to be a working vessel and refurbished to comfortable passenger standard. The mood on board is definitely casual. At sea we are totally self sufficient. The days flow by whilst we travel snugly in our cocoon. A favorite pastime on board is to stand at the stern watching the many seabirds, including majestic albatrosses and giant petrels following our wake. They will rise and fall skillfully, using the air currents created by the ship to gain momentum. Feeling transformed, we approach Antarctica, receptive and open.
During our crossing of Drake Passage, we will commence our lecture program about the wildlife, geology, history and geography of the Antarctic Peninsula. We will be given guidelines for approaching wildlife and we'll talk about the implications of the Antarctic Treaty. Antarctica is a photographers' paradise, for the professional or the amateur. There will be discussions about how to protect your equipment from salt water and tips for taking good pictures.
Excitement reaches fever pitch as we wait for the sight of our first iceberg. We near the tip of the Peninsula towards the end of day three, everyone will be on the bridge watching for our first iceberg. The ocean takes on a whole new perspective once we are surrounded by the surreal presence of floating ice sculptures. The memory of the sight of your first iceberg is likely to remain with you for ever.
Antarctic Peninsula
We will first approach Antarctica near the South Shetland Islands, entering Bransfield Strait either at the eastern end of King George Island or the western extremity of Livingston Island. We may pass by historic Smith Island, which is the outer limit of the South Shetlands.
A host of choices is now open to us, and depending on the ice and weather conditions the western side of the Antarctic Peninsula is ours to explore. This is the advantage of having such experienced staff and crew, who have made countless journeys to this area. They will use their experience to design our voyage, from day to day. In this way we can make best use of the prevailing weather and ice conditions. As we are so far south, we will experience approximately 20 hours' daylight. There is plenty of time for sleep when you get home........ !
Once we arrive in the calmer waters of Bransfield and Gerlache Straits, we will be landing two to three times a day. To get ashore we will use Zodiacs (inflatable rubber boats). We will have been briefed on the merits of these sturdy craft and their use, during our Drake Passage crossing. Sometimes we will cruise along spectacular ice cliffs, or follow whales that are feeding near the surface. In these cases we will appreciate the distinct advantage of being on a small vessel, which gives everyone the opportunity to experience these very special close encounters with wildlife. Hearty meals are served in our cosy dining rooms by our European or Australian chefs and accompanied by good conversation; they will become a focal point of our shipboard life.
There are many exciting places that we would like to visit. A sample of these follows:
Hannah Point, Livingston Island
A unique landing place on the Peninsula. A tiny toe of land that is literally alive with wildlife. Here we will find two species of penguins breeding, Chinstraps and Gentoo. Sometimes there are a few vagrant Macaroni penguins nesting as well. It is not uncommon to find wallows of elephant seal that are 60 beasts strong. On the ridge line Giant Petrels are nesting. The vegetation consists of mosses, lichens and the only grass species that grows in Antarctica. All this set in a stunning position, underneath long black scree slopes, at the foot of the mountains and glaciers of Livingston Island.
Half Moon Island
A wildlife rich island, tucked into a neat bay at the eastern end of Livingston Island. On a clear day the glaciers and mountains of Livingston Island dominate the scene. There is a large Chinstrap penguin rookery tucked in between basaltic turrets coloured by yellow and orange lichens. Gulls nest on these turrets and we often see fur seals and elephant seals hauled out on the pebble beaches. At one extremity of the island there is a large colony of nesting Blue-eyed Shags. At the other, a small Argentine scientific station conducts research on the penguin colony and ecology of the surrounding waterways.
Deception Island
Visiting Deception Island is like making a journey to the moon. We enter the volcanic crater, on board the ship, through the narrow opening of Neptune's Bellows. Inside is an unworldly scene, virtually devoid of life. Glaciers flow down from the edge of the crater, littered by black volcanic ash. We can explore the lifeless remains of a derelict whaling station and a vacant British base or climb to the rim of the crater. Steam rises from the shore indicating that the water is actually warm enough for a swim, for those who dare. Outside the crater, if conditions allow, we will land at the enormous Chinstrap penguin rookery that featured in David Attenborough's Life in the Freezer series.
Paradise Harbour
A protected bay surrounded by magnificent peaks and spectacular glaciers. Rocky cliffs provide perfect nesting sites for Blue-eyed Shags, terns and gulls. The serenity of Paradise Bay envelopes once the sound of the anchor dropping fades from our ears. This is a haven for whales and sometimes we meet humpbacks and minkes as we explore the bay in Zodiacs. Imagine being so close to a whale that when he surfaces to blow, your vision is momentarily blurred by the fishy spray of his exhalation.
Lemaire Channel
If the ice conditions allow, standing on the bow of Polar Pioneer and quietly moving through the narrow Lemaire Channel will be one of the highlights of our voyage. Cliffs tower 700 metres directly above the ship. The water is so still that perfect reflections are mirrored on the surface. Gigantic icebergs often clog the channel, creating interesting navigation challenges for the captain and crew and may even obstruct our passage.
Other possible destinations around the Antarctic Peninsula are:
- Petermann Island
- Penola Strait
- Neko Harbour, Andvoord Bay
- Antarctic Sound
- Paulet Island
- Elephant Island
- Nansen Island
- Penguin Island
- Aitcho Island
The scientific Bases of:
- Arctowski - Polish
- Ferraz - Brazilian
- Vernadsky - Ukrainian
- Port Lockroy - British
Drake Passage
Time to head back to Tierra del Fuego, with more lectures and videos to complete our Antarctic education. A time for reflection and discussion about what we have seen and felt and what impact this voyage has had on our attitude to life. As we approach the tip of South America, our Captain will sail close to legendary Cape Horn, weather conditions permitting.
Beagle Channel
During the early morning we cruise up the Beagle Channel, before quietly slipping into dock in Ushuaia. It is a busy time, with people saying farewell to our crew and others who have shared the intensity of being in a magnificent white wilderness. We head off in our different directions, hopefully with a newfound sense of the power of natural forces. Note: All itineraries are for guidance only. Programs may vary depending on local ice and weather conditions and in order to take advantage of opportunities to see wildlife. The final itinerary for each voyage will be determined by the Expedition Leader on board.
Suggested add-ons
We have a range of Patagonia options including short customised itineraries and group departures. Ask our office for details.
- Paine and Fitzroy Trek
- Patagonia Adventure
- Paine Circuit
- Peru Extensions
Contact us for more details
A Typical Day
Because of the exploratory nature of these voyages we do not have a set itinerary. The final decisions on our daily program will make best use of local ice and weather conditions, spontaneous opportunities and wildlife.
- 10 breakfasts, 9 lunches and 10 dinners
- specialist expedition staff
- comfortable cabin accommodation on cruise
- all activities while on cruise including zodiac cruises, lectures, videos, slide and film shows and guide services
- use of all ship facilities and public areas
- medical services. There is a resident medical officer and infirmary on board.
Start Date |
End Date |
| 27 November 2007 |
07 December 2007 |
| 18 December 2007 |
28 December 2007 |
| 28 December 2007 |
07 January 2008 |
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